A Visit to the Masai

Tanzania is such a rich and diverse country that I cannot but help to fill you in on some of the diversity here. Though we say Tanzania is a country, its borders were almost randomly drawn by early colonial powers. Tanzania is actually made up of over 120 different tribes– each with its own separate language and culture (We think America is a melting pot!). I want to draw your attention to one people group – the Masai. They don’t traditionally live in the Dar es Salaam region as they are from the northern plains of Tanzania and Kenya, but they are around the city for jobs. They are a fascinating people group. Some characteristics that stand out to me:
They are nomadic cattle herders and their life revolves around cattle.
They believe God ordained them as owners of all cattle on the face of the earth – this has resulted in many misunderstandings when they are accused of stealing when in their eyes, they are only taking what is rightfully theirs.
They can be seen all over Northern Tanzania, one or two lone Masai with huge herds of cattle moving slowly to find grazing.
They are very tall and very thin and very proud – the young, male warriors wear long hair that they braid into elaborate designs, the women shave their heads completely.
They dress completely in red, purple, and glittering silver and white beads. They are rarely seen without a red plaid robe – several wrapped around their waists and one or two wrapped over their shoulders. Women wear red and blue/purple. They love all that glitters and beadwork. They wear shoes made of old tires strapped to their feet.
One of their highest values is bravery and they are never seen without a long stick, a panga (thick sword), and a rungu (short stick with a knob on the end for walloping lions over the head with).
One of their other highest values is loyalty and they are highly social – always seen in groups with others of their age. They, if they can afford it, will often have a cell phone tucked somewhere in the folds of their robes. These are used primarily for socializing – not doing business.
Probably the most amazing characteristic about the Masai is their complete resiliency to modern life. Though the rest of Africa has dropped in outward appearance, at least, traditional dress and would strive for Western housing and lifestyle, the Masai seem completely untouched by choice. Though the rest of Tanzania looks down on them for their traditional ways, the Masai seem to spurn modernism almost saying, “Why would I want to adopt your inferior mode of dress?” This attitude can almost be seen in their walk and in their eyes.

Their culture is far more complex and interesting than my short-sighted observations but it is just to give you a small glimpse. When we first moved here, we met a Masai man named Molel (around 40 years old). He often came to visit us and would sit outside our door waiting patiently for a visit – at the time we knew very little Swahili so conversations were incredibly limited. I now wonder how he could wait so long for a few words of greeting. As our relationship progressed, we met his wife and youngest baby girl. They live far out in the bush but came down for a visit. When we moved into our present home, we asked him to work for us as a guard and we now see him and chat on a nightly basis.

This past summer we went to visit Molel’s family. It was a long drive through the plains on a road – Benjamin is skeptical that it was a road because the Masai boys that saw our car would dive behind bushes like they had never seen one before! We drove for hours and hours into bush which all looked the same until Molel suddenly said, “Here!” We turned off the road and suddenly people appeared and cut a way through the bush for our car to get through. We spent the night and next day with Molel and his extended family. We were treated to a feast of goat, a tour of the neighborhood, many smiles (most rural Masai don’t speak Swahili but only their traditional language), and of course, the formal picture taking that occurs whenever a camera is revealed. Upon leaving, we were presented with a live goat. Not wanting to offend, we strapped it to the roof of our car and were off. Within the next half hour, we had picked up several Masai walking to the road and the goat was moved from the roof to the inside of the car. For the next four hours, our car was made up of our five family members, three Masai and a goat. My children have never been so silent for four hours in their life (who is going to whine next to a man with a rungu)! It was an experience to remember.

We are still in contact with Molel’s extended family by cell phone. I think we have loyalty with his family and we are definitely honored to know them and have a chance to learn about Masai and continue our relationship with them. It is amazing to think that this is only one example of the many different people groups in just this one little section of Africa. They are all so rich in culture and music and language and ritual. I know God is waiting patiently for a church to be established in each of these groups. You will get to meet Molel and his family in heaven. He can tell you there all about his lion scars, cattle, and life in the plains of Tanzania. No need for cell phones then!